Last week, I managed to sneak in a week’s holiday in the Alentejo region of Portugal, renowned for its stunning coastline, wine production, and cork oak trees. Nestled between the vibrant city of Lisbon to the north and the picturesque Algarve to the south, Alentejo is not typically known for its golf courses. However, a new course called The Dunas at Terras da Comporta, designed by the acclaimed Alastair McLay Kidd—famous for Bandon Dunes, the Castle Course at St. Andrews, and Beaverbrook—caught my attention and curiosity.
The media launch photos showcased a breathtaking course with white sandy wastelands, pine trees, and the sea in the background framed by impressive dunes. Seeking sun, relaxation, and driven by my long-held love for Portugal and its culture, I decided to explore this new golfing destination.
The journey from Comporta village to Hotel Spatia, a brief 15-minute drive, immediately made me feel that visiting this part of Portugal was the best decision I had made in 2024. The landscape is stunning: rice fields, dunes, forests, and expanses of white sand—not just on the beautiful beaches but everywhere. Though I could elaborate extensively on the allure of Comporta, let’s focus on what truly brought me here: the golf.
Upon entering the resort, the long drive meanders through undulating umbrella pines, cork trees, and flowering plants, with glimpses of the course appearing through the vegetation. As soon as the car stops, a buggy appears with your clubs and a warm welcome, escorting you to the clubhouse. The stylish but compact clubhouse features outstanding practise and warm-up areas, including a vast putting green, an impressive chipping green, and an expansive practise range with numerous interesting shots to targets sculpted into the natural movement of the land.
The course itself evokes the feel of a Surrey heathland but with more sand, or a Pinehurst with added drama. The property’s sheer scale is breathtaking, unspoiled, and spacious, with intoxicating scents of ocean air and pine trees.
On the first tee, the distinction between sandy wastelands and bunkers is clarified, and the locations of water fountains are pointed out so we could fill up the branded water bottles generously gifted by the club. Despite the course only opening in October 2023, the fairways and greens were in extraordinary condition, almost as if we were the first to play them. It felt wrong to take a divot and disrupt the perfection around us.
Most holes feature significant elevation changes, with high tees leading into beautifully woven fairways surrounded by bunkers and sand. Indigenous plants add to the natural beauty, and while losing a ball is almost impossible, wayward shots can still incur heavy penalties.
Until the 13th hole, no other hole is visible from where you are playing, creating a sense of your own private space. From the 13th to the 16th, the course opens, teasing you with the excitement of what’s to come. Every hole is superb, without a hint of weakness, a testament to McLay Kidd’s exceptional skill. The land seems made for golf, reminiscent of the best natural courses crafted by Harry Colt in the UK and Donald Ross in the US. The sandy soil provides firm, tight lies beloved by links and heathland golf enthusiasts.
Excitingly, this is just the beginning for this property. A new course, the Torre Course designed by Sergio Garcia, is set to open in June 2025. The future looks incredibly promising; this will quickly become a must-visit destination for golf lovers seeking the finest experiences.
