Having explored Marrakech and Agadir in the past, I was thrilled to receive an invitation to play in the Hassan II Trophy Pro-Am at Royal Dar es Salam Golf Club. The trip would also take me through Rabat and Tangier – two cities I’d been eager to visit. As someone who’s spent years in the golf tourism industry, I was curious to experience these destinations from a player’s perspective.
First Impressions of Rabat
After landing in Casablanca, I joined the rest of our group in Rabat. Unlike the familiar terracotta landscape of Marrakech, Rabat presented a modern city with strong European influences. The tree-lined streets and French colonial architecture created an interesting blend of familiar and exotic elements.
My first real taste of Moroccan history came at the Chellah, a medieval fortified Muslim necropolis. The site has an atmospheric quality, with its remarkable blend of Roman and Islamic ruins creating a sense of stepping back through layers of history. What caught my attention most were the dozens of white storks nesting atop the crumbling walls. Local legend says these birds are actually marabouts (holy men) in disguise, and watching them soar gracefully over the ruins, I could understand why such myths persist.
The Hassan Tower, an ambitious 12th-century project, now stands as Rabat’s most iconic monument. While the tower only reached about half its intended height, the forest of columns surrounding it created an almost otherworldly atmosphere. Our guides explained that had it been completed, it would have been the world’s largest mosque – a testament to Morocco’s historical ambitions. The adjacent Mausoleum of Mohammed V, with its stunning zellige tilework and carved cedar ceilings, provided a striking contrast between ancient and modern Morocco.
An Unexpected Culinary Discovery
A lunch at Riad Dar Chrifa with our group stands out in my memory. Behind an unassuming door in the medina, the riad revealed a stunning courtyard that felt centuries removed from the bustling streets outside.
The meal began with an array of delicate vegetarian starters before moving on to the main course: tender lamb with prunes and apricots, the meat falling off the bone and the fruit lending a subtle sweetness to the rich sauce. The Chateau Roslane wine we had with lunch was an unexpected joy – so good that I’ve since managed to track down a supplier back home in the UK!
The Journey to Tangier
The journey to Tangier aboard the Al Boraq high-speed train was an unexpected highlight of my trip. The sleek, modern train wouldn’t have looked out of place in France or Japan. The 1 hour and 20-minute journey felt like a very luxurious way to cover 265 kilometres and what would be over a three hour journey by car.
The visit to the Hilton Hotel and Al Houara Golf Club, with its dramatic Atlantic Ocean backdrop, some 20 minutes outside the City, was impressive. But it was the Royal Golf Club of Tangier that really captured my imagination. Established in 1914, it stands as Britain’s first golfing footprint in Morocco. Walking the historic fairways, I found it remarkable that such a course exists within city limits.
A lunch at the Fairmont Tazi Palace, and afternoon tea at the rooftop bar at the Riad Saba’s Houseoverlooking Tangier Harbour and across to Tarifa in Spain enabled us to grasp a curious fascination for this bustling port City.
The Hassan II Trophy Experience
Royal Dar Es Salam Golf Club, the fabulous 45 hole complex, proved to be as impressive as its reputation suggested. Sensibly, the organisers put me out on the slightly shorter and easier Blue Course, designed by Robert Trent Jones Sr. in 1971, which winds through cork oak trees that create natural corridors for each hole. The course manages to blend the precision of a modern championship layout with the character of its natural setting’ and provides a compelling challenge at every turn. Playing in the Pro-Am alongside local professional golfer Ines Laklalech was undoubtedly one of the highlights of my trip.
The gala reception at the Fairmont Marina Rabat that evening was spectacular, with an impressive gathering of golf talent including Padraig Harrington, Jose Maria Olazabal, and Ernie Els. The strong field at both the Champions Tour and LET events demonstrated the tournament’s growing prominence in professional golf.
Personal Reflections
What struck me most about this trip was the contrast between my expectations and reality. While I’d anticipated good golf, I hadn’t expected the seamless blend of European comfort and North African character that I found, particularly in Rabat. Playing in a pleasant 16 degrees while my colleagues back home were dealing with typical British winter weather certainly didn’t hurt either.
I left Morocco with not just a newfound appreciation for its golf scene, but a deeper understanding of a country in transition. As I plan future visits, I’m particularly intrigued by some of the developments I heard about during my stay. The World Cup football in 2030 will be the catalyst for a major transformation of infrastructure, and the government’s commitment to sustainable tourism is evident in their focus on water conservation in golf course management – something we could learn from in the UK.
During my time at Royal Dar es Salam, I was struck by the energy around the club and the mix of international and local players. The success of players like Ines Laklalech seems to have sparked real momentum in Morocco’s golf scene.
There’s something captivating about the backdrop of ancient minarets and the call to prayer drifting across the fairways. But beyond the golf, it was the warmth of the people and the richness of the culture that left the strongest impression. I’m already planning my next visit – there’s clearly much more to discover here.
