Having got to grips with the golf around the City of Newcastle, I set off to Northumberland’s coastal courses, and to check in at the Marshall Meadow Hotel, an elegant converted Georgian Manor just yards from the Scottish border and conveniently located between the sea and the A1 near Berwick upon Tweed. This is a charming hotel that exudes an understated class. It provides a variety of comfortable, beautifully fitted rooms, a very welcoming bar, and a restaurant with an impressive fine dining menu. The food was excellent. What also stood out, though, was the warmth and professionalism of the staff. It is clear that Marshall Meadow is not only well-managed but also dedicated to creating a memorable experience for every guest. No doubt, golfers would feel at home here. Highly recommended.
Goswick Golf Links was first on my list—a course that lives up to its reputation as an Open Championship qualifying site. With a classic two-out-and-in layout, Goswick has all the hallmarks of a premier links course: length, resilience, and those fast, firm fairways and greens that offer a true test. The views out to Lindisfarne and beyond are stunning, and the brisk sea air gives an added sense of adventure. The course itself is as challenging as it is beautiful, with no promise of an easy round.
Next, I ventured to Bamburgh Castle Golf Club, a course that is all about enjoyment and appreciation. Bamburgh is not a Championship course—and that is exactly why it is so captivating. The course has a rare beauty, with vistas rivalling Thurlestone and St. Enodoc as some of the most breathtaking in the UK. The view stretches not only across the coast but also to the enchanting, almost surreal Bamburgh Castle itself.
The golf here is quirky and fun, with two par-3s to start, the occasional blind shot, and rocky outcrops to navigate. It is a course designed to be played with a smile and enjoyed for its uniqueness.
For my next night’s accommodation, I stayed at The Tempus, a stylish boutique hotel on the Charlton Hall Estate near Alnwick. It is an ideal spot for anyone eager to explore the charm of Northumberland’s villages, the dramatic coastline, and a number of castles—some of the most impressive in the country. This area is no stranger to Hollywood either; you might recognise scenes from the Harry Potter and Indiana Jones films, and if you catch a glimpse of someone looking like Harrison Ford roaming the grounds, it just might be him!
The Tempus itself is a gem. With glamorous decor, excellent food, and all the comforts one could ask for, it offers a unique charm that is not immediately “golf centric.” Yet, when you take in the range of accommodations, you start to see why it is drawing more golfers. Better still, Northumberland’s best links courses are within a 20-minute drive, making it a fantastic location for golf enthusiasts.
Dunstanburgh Castle Golf Club was next, offering a more traditional links layout. Once possibly the most underrated course in the country, it is finally gaining the recognition it deserves, thanks in part to influencers and YouTubers who have been wowed by its quality. For years, the green fees were almost laughably affordable. With its castle ruin backdrop and a delightful little par-3 that plays far tougher than it looks, Dunstanburgh is the perfect blend of challenging golf and stunning scenery.
The Tempus, Charlton Hall
Charlton Hall Estate, Chathill, Northumberland, NE67 5DZ
Stylish boutique hotel close to the stunning golf courses on the Northumberland Coast.
Finally, no golf tour along this coastline would be complete without a round at Alnmouth Village Golf Club, England’s oldest links course. This nine-hole course sits right on the edge of the North Sea, so close that the waves almost lap against the fairways. It is a stunning pocket of dunes that offers a few delightful holes, each one shaped by the coastal landscape.
The charm of nine-hole courses is making a comeback, and Alnmouth provides the ideal way to enjoy a shorter, relaxed round of golf—perfect for preserving energy for the journey home.
After my nine holes, I had just enough time to visit the brand-new visitor centre at the Ad Gefrin Distillery in Wooler. This experience was a highlight; even if you are only a little interested in whisky or gin, it is a must-see attraction. The journey around the distillery reveals a fascinating story of family success and determination. The interactive museum brings Northumberland’s rich history to life, and the whisky tasting elevates the experience to another level. But to try and explain further would take away from the impact that a first time visit will make.
Altogether, it was a fantastic stay, and Northumberland’s magic—its scenic courses, charming towns, and remarkable hospitality—left me vowing to return for a longer duration.